New Yachtmaster II 116688
New Rolex Milgauss 116400
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Rolex Day-Date 118348
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Showing posts with label titanium. Show all posts
Showing posts with label titanium. Show all posts

Omega X-33 ref. 3991.52 - The Review

Last year I posted an item about a discontinued analog-digital watch from Omega, the X-33. Today I am finally posting the actual review of the watch, obtained from ebay shortly after that posting. Why the long delay? Well, read on and see!

DSCF1644
To recap, the X-33 is one of two watches from Omega space-qualified by NASA. There's the mechanical Speedmaster (worn on the moon), and the quartz X-33, known as 'the Mars watch.' The X-33 was released in 1998 and discontinued in 2006, though Omega still sells them to military aviators directly at a discount. (No, please don't bother asking, I have no way to get one for you and don't know anyone who does!) Omega went through several design iterations before releasing it, and two versions hit the market. This one is second generation, with a matte-finished bezel, plunger 'crown' and improved buttons. The case is brushed titanium, the buttons are actually stainless steel finished to match the case, and the crystal is domed sapphire with dual-sided antireflective coating. The analog hands are lumed with Superluminova, as are the hour markers and bezel dot. Note that the bezel is bidirectional - this is a pilot's watch, after all, not a diver.

Read on for more!
Despite being several years old, there are quite a few things about this watch that remain unique. The curved LCD display, which allows larger digits on a round face, the super-bright 8 lux backlight, the 'mission timer' feature, and of course the special super-loud 80dB alarm.
DSCF1929 On the negative side, the alarm volume (which was a NASA requirement, so it could be heard in a loud environment) reduced the versatility of the watch - to get that loud, Omega used a dual-layer caseback with vents, meaning that it's really, really not very waterproof at all. It's rated to 30m (100ft), but having disassembled mine, I wouldn't recommend showering or swimming with it. The gasket is held in place by vertical pressure from the screwed caseback, which is less effective than a screwdown design. And, of course, the venting doesn't help either. Engineering is all about tradeoffs, and for a watch designed for space and flying, this is a perfectly reasonable one. Those of us more earthbound, however, have to keep it in mind.DSCF1930

Another negative is the AR coating on the crystal. I got this one used, and as you can see, there are many small scratches in the coating. In person, it's not that obtrusive, but I do wish they had more durability. From what I've read, Sinn is the leader in this -- perhaps Omega can license their technology in the future.
Similarly, the unalloyed titanium body picks up scratches easily. Compare it to the 2006-vintage Citizen PMT56-2711, which, with its titanium nitride surface treatment, has only a single scratch despite lots of wrist time:
Comparo

There's a lot to like about this watch. Usually, I leave the LCD display off, which saves a bit of power and has a very uncluttered look. Since the hands are driven directly by the watch, this is my preferred wearer for traveling: it has a shortcut for quickly changing the hour, which is perfect for changing timezones.
P1020364 I've also worn it to fly in a Piper Lance. As expected, the watch is unmatched for aviation: I used mission time for flight time, the timer for switching fuel tanks, the UTC time for weather and flight plan, and stopwatch for time since engine start. It was easy to hear the alarm, even in a very noisy plane with headphones on, and the display was super readable. I should also note that, when flying, I really prefer watches without reflective surfaces, as the glints and flashes of light are annoying and distracting; the X-33 is superb in this regard. I also quite like how the combination of domed AR-coated crystal and hands makes the watch readable from a wider range of angles than anything else I've ever seen. It's readable at very oblique angles, which is also nice for sneaking the time in long meetings.DSCF1932

If you look closely, you'll see that the hour and minute hands are white, and the second hand is a light shade of grey. It's a nice touch. Also look at the complex curved shape of the lugs; very beautiful and yet hardly noticeable. The button guards are sculpted ridges of metal, and yet the buttons are easily pressed while wearing gloves. Speaking of buttons, I have to mention that the X-33 has the nicest of any I have ever pressed, bar none. Firm, very definite, almost a 'snap' feel to them. Lovely. The electroluminescent backlight is blindingly bright to night-adapted eyes, so I usually rely on the excellent lume. It's as bright as my Seiko divers, though applied in smaller areas.

A lot of Omega watches have more bling to them, but the X-33 is very understated. The logo on the dial is only visible at close scrutiny, and the low sales volumes mean that I've never had anyone recognize it. I did have a nice conversation with a NASA collaborator about it once I pointed it out, though - apparently some of the pilots in the flight test division have them. From what I've read on the net, it's also still popular with military pilots, so I yet hold out hope that Omega will reintroduce it again to the market.
DSCF1646 Mine came on Omega's leather-backed kevlar strap, which is cool but impractical. (At least in the Air Force, synthetic straps are forbidden in aircraft, as they will fuse to your skin in a fire. Ouch.) I put it on a plain leather strap with white stitching, which works well for a watch that should never be wet anyway. There is a version on a titanium bracelet as well.

DSCF1937 Prices have gone up and down on the used market, I (over) paid $1,300 for this one without box or papers. That's an awful lot of money for a used quartz watch, especially now that competition like the new aviator G-Shocks are available. The X-33 is a complex tradeoff: unique features and history, but so-so value and durability. It's more of an irrational decision -- decide for yourself if it calls to you!

For more information about the X-33 project, history and different models, I recommend reading Ryan Rooney's pages.

By Paul Hubbard
www.watchreport.com

Victorinox Classic XLS MT

Sa_241300_sol_a03As a former pilot, there are two watches that represent the absolute finest gear for flying: the Omega X-33, and Breitling Aerospace. Both are quartz and analog/digital, and have very different looks. Today's post is about a very similar watch that has a much more reasonable price tag to the Aerospace, the Victorinox Swiss Army Classic XLS MT. I've not yet confirmed this, but I strongly suspect that it has the exact same movement as the Aerospace, the ETA 988.432, making it one heck of a deal. Specifications of the Victorinox are:

  • Swiss made, Swiss quartz movement.

  • Anti-reflective-coated sapphire crystal.

  • Stainless steel case, PVD-coated 'gunmetal'.

  • Luminous hands and hour markers.

  • Crown guard.

  • Countdown timer, alarm clock, stopwatch, dual time zone, multiple languages.

  • Water resistant to 100m.

  • 45mm by 12m, quite large.

List price is shown as $1,095USD, but I would expect a discount from that. Let's compare to the Breitling Aerospace:

  • Titanium case.

  • Night-vision-goggle-compatible backlight. (I have no idea what that means, but it sure sounds cool.)

  • Second timezone, alarm, stopwatch, countdown timer.

  • Crown-driven operation.

  • 100m waterproof.

  • AR-coated sapphire crystal.

  • 42mm by 10.4mm, 38g.

(Picture snipped from the Breitling website)

You can kind of see from the pictures that the displays are identical, which makes sense if the movements are the same. You can also see that the Victorinox is larger. 45mm is large but not huge; I'd be happy to wear one.

As with many Swiss brands, Breitling bars selling over the Internet, but Amazon sells them with a list price of $2,795. Picture_1

There are two things I dislike about this movement: the lack of a second hand (useful for 30-second turns), and the crown-driven operation. It's really hard to manipulate while wearing it, which limits the functionality a bit. Nevertheless, I'm hoping that I can try the Victorinox, as that price is much more up my alley, and I really like how it looks.

By Paul Hubbard

www.watchreport.com

Two New Bell & Ross Models


BrtiThe Bell & Ross company (Yep, that's an ampersand. The joke is that Bell & Ross got theirs from Vacheron Constantin, who used to be Vacheron & Constantin.) has been a recurring subject here on Watch Report. We like many of their watches, particularly the aircraft-styled Instrument collection and their new line of dive watches. Today we've got some new models from B&R, so let's take a look and see what's changed.

First up is the BR01 Instrument Pro Titanium. Like their predecessor Instrument models, it has the square case, bold dial and aircraft-gauge style paired with a reliable ETA mechanical movement. This new model is now made of lightweight titanium, and they've also changed the style of the hour and minute hands to a beveled/polished look that I quite like. It's very similar to the style of the hands on the Seiko Marinemaster SBDX001, another watch slated for review here. The BR01 has a chronograph, using the ETA 2892 base coupled with a Dubois-Dupraz chronograph module. Specs are 46mm, grade-2 titanium with a satin finish. The dial is grey with white Superluminova coating on hands and hour markers. The crystal is sapphire with an anti-reflective coating, and the strap is rubber.


About the only thing I don't like is the MSRP of 5500 Euros, or $7900. That's quite a bit for a stock-ETA watch, and probably reflects how well B&R has been doing in the marketplace with the Instrument series.


The other new model is the BRS Ceramic Instrument. This pays homage to the immensely influential Chanel J12 series, debuting in 2000, which were the first to ship watches made from super-tough white and black ceramics.


J12black (The picture is from the Chanel site) Ever since the J12, other companies have introduced watches made of ceramics, which we consider a fine thing: ceramics make excellent watch cases and bracelets. I should also note that other companies have been making ceramic watches for a while, such as Rado, but for some reason the J12 proved more influential. Such is fashion.


Bell & Ross have done some interesting things with it - they used it to make an ultra-thin watch of more moderate size, which combined with the quartz movement chosen should result in a fantastically durable watch.


The specifications for the Ceramic Instrument



  • 55g, 6.8mm by 39mm. Only 7mm less than the Ti Pro, but that's quite a lot in a square watch.

  • More than one material is available - white or black ceramic, steel or gold, with or without diamonds around the bezel.

  • List prices range from 2900 to 7900 Euros, or 4100USD to 11,300USD.

Here's a shot of the family faces, courtesy of their PR:


Brceramics

And one closeup of the black dial with diamonds:


Brdiamonds

By Paul Hubbard

www.watchreport.com

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